The vision that became reality

This winter the Phoenix Art Museum has an exhibition about Frank Lloyd Wright, the well known architect who lived and worked partly in Phoenix. He was active in the beginning of the century and made some very famous buildings and homes, the most famous probably Falling Water and the Guggenheim Museum in New York.

The most fascinating thing about this exhibition was that I understood more about Phoenix and where the inspiration for the city structure had come from. A lot of Frank Lloyd Wright's work has an art deco style which I am very fond of. It is somehow both old and futuristic. I can not help thinking about Fritz Lang's Metropolis when I see art deco architecture. But the interesting thing I learned at this exhibition was that Lloyd Wright also created a plan for the perfect city, Broadacre City. It was the beginning of the century, cars were not very common but there was a dream of wealth and technically advanced future. Naturally his plan evolved around cars and the idea that everyone should have an acre of land. To make this work the city became very spread out and in order to get around quickly a network of roads were a central part of the planning. Looking at his sketches makes you realize that this is exactly what Phoenix looks like today. This futuristic city that has become reality is as functional and lifeless as the drawings show.

East Phoenix Metro Area from Superstition Ridge

The thought of giving everyone a fair piece of property close to everything they need is of course very nice. But therefore it also lacks the atmosphere that so many other cities do have and make them worth visiting. There is no city center where people spontaneously meet and where you can go shopping, catch a movie, a theater, visit markets, have coffee or dinner with friends and stroll around and do some people watching, all in the same place. Honestly, I have a very hard time to say why anyone should visit Phoenix as a tourist. It is a comfortable city to live in but does not offer a lot to the visitor. Unless the city structure itself makes you want to come and see it with your own eyes. The thing many people visit Phoenix for is the weather, to play golf or other sports when it is too cold in other places. Many baseball teams for example has their spring training in Phoenix which attracts a lot of tourists. Fair enough, the winters here are very comfortable and also my favorite thing about Phoenix.

Coming from a place where public transport is the best way of getting around and having a car is actually more of a hassle than useful, it is difficult to get used to Phoenix. People who grew up here seem to love it though. Many would just get nervous in a city where I feel very comfortable. I guess this is a good thing though, everyone is not the same and there is a place for everybody. 

Phoenix downtown escape

A couple of months ago now we decided to give Phoenix Downtown another chance and treat ourselves to a stay at a nice hotel. I could already see it in front of me; after strolling around town we would come back to the hotel in the afternoon with tired feet and legs. The champagne would be already chilled and Andy would run a hot bath were we would enjoy the bubbles. I spent some time looking for a hotel and finally chose the Westin on Van Buren and 1^st Street. 

View from the Westin pool area.

The location was perfect since it is just a couple of blocks from our favourite restaurant, Sens. It is a quite small Japanese tapas style restaurant and definately worth a visit. The reason I picked the Westin was that they have a small suite with a bathroom in the corner of the building with floor to ceiling windows where you can look out over the city while having a bath. The fact that they had a bar where we felt just at home was a bonus. It was quite empty but still boosted some interesting people watching.

Just what I needed. :-)

Downtown Phoenix is really not too bad except for the fact that there are no people there. To be a multi million city it feels deserted. If you look closely there are some nice cafés, bars and restaurants but the atmosphere is missing. Sadly.

Nice café behind the Phoenix Art Museum. But where are the guests?

But we did have a good time and got what we expected.

Phoenix - a first impression

Believe it or not, Phoenix is the sixth largest city (population) in the USA. It does look big as you fly in to Sky Harbor which is located more or less in the center of the city and it takes about an hour to drive from one side to the other on the freeway with speed limit 65 miles/h (about 105 km/h). So there is no doubt about it, this is a big city. The city fills up an entire valley which is surrounded by mountains, the Phoenix Metro Area is often called The Valley. There is a network of freeways that ensures easy travel from one area to another and in between the freeways there are major roads with three lanes in each direction. What you learn though is to take the freeway as far as you can since the traffic lights are frequent on the major roads and can slow down you trip considerably.

The very city center has some high rise buildings but otherwise it is quite flat and spread out.

Historic Phoenix downtown.

One thing that surprises me is that there are many empty lots even in the very city center. I guess there is so much land to build on that it is not necessary to build everything in the same place and since everyone is driving everywhere there has been no need to.

This image is taken from Dobbins Lookout on South Mountain. If you click on the image you will see downtown on the left and the airport to the right. 

Phoenix seems to have strict rules as to how buildings are allowed to be built. More or less all buildings and houses are beige and flat. Not many buildings have more than two or three stories. The result of this is that it looks the same everywhere all over the city. You can find yourself anywhere and if you drive 5-10 min in either direction you will find a place that looks almost the same. You will find the same stores and the same restaurants. Almost all restaurants here are part of a chain. So you don't really have to leave your neighborhood because there is nothing new to find on the other side of the fence.

Typical strip mall. You have to drive only a couple of streets to find the next one.

 This is what most residential areas look like. 

The neighborhoods are often surrounded by walls and the name of the place are written as you drive into the street. The fancy places are also gated.

It seems also that no one does leave their neighborhood very often. There is no city center that is a natural place for people to go, like we (at least Europeans) are used to. Downtown Phoenix does have some tall buildings, museums, shops and restaurants. But people does not seem to go here to hang out. This part of town always feels empty, almost abandoned. Not even after a big baseball game at Chase Field, which is situated in the very center of the city and takes almost 50 000 spectators, do you find more people walking around. The way to do it here is to take your car, go to the place you want to visit, if a museum, restaurant or shop, park as close as you can and when satisfied with your visit go directly with your car to the next place or home. 

The only places that seem to attract the masses are the shopping malls. I guess the weather can be partly to blame for this because in the summer you do not want to wander around outdoors. You need to find a place that is air conditioned. But the really hot months are not that many, about as many as the very cold ones in Sweden. The rest of the year is very comfortable to be outside during the day. 

One part of town that does have potential is downtown Scottsdale. Here you will find many restaurants and shops. Unfortunately they are mostly souvenir shops or art galleries. So if you are not in the market for presents or particularly interested in art you will still end up at the Scottsdale Fashion Center, the huge mall just a few block away. Also in downtown Scottsdale many of the restaurants are chain restaurants that you will find all over town.

I miss just going downtown, walking around a bit, maybe pop into my favorite shop, have a coffee with friends and just enjoy the atmosphere. The atmosphere in Phoenix though is missing, I am sorry to say. Just the other day though we learned more about Phoenix after a visit to the Phoenix Art Museum. I am now much more intrigued and it all seems to make more sense. But this deserves a separate post. Stay tuned.

Favourite spots

Usually my favourite spot anywhere is an elevated point where I can get a good view. In Stockholm it is the top of Västerbron, a bridge where you have a great view of the city center and the surrounding waters. This is unfortunately a very busy place with lots of traffic so I don't linger there for very long but I do make sure that passing this bridge is part of walks and runs in the area. As it happens, in Phoenix, one of my favourite spots is similar.

Phoenix is a very big and flat city. Usually you do not see anything further than the next block. As I drive to work I have to drive over the I-10 along Chandler Blwd where the bridge is just a few meters higher than the surrounding area. But because the city is so flat you can see all the way to Superstition Mountains at the other end of town at this place. The sunrise and sunset are usually very nice from here and you can easily see sandstorms rolling in from the south. 

Luckily there are two traffic lights on the bridge itself and in this case I do not mind that these particular ones are always red when I come along.

Visiting parents

In September my parents came over from Sweden to visit us in Arizona. The first few days we showed them around the area, looked at the views from Dobbins Lookout on South Mountain, did some shopping at the Chandler Mall, had drinks at the Hyatt in downtown Phoenix and drove the Apache Trail.

Apache Trail

Goldfield Ghost town along the Apache Trail 

As usual the weather was sunny and a bit warmer than we had expected at this time of year. It has been around 40 degrees Celsius in Phoenix during this time. My parents had not ever experienced that kind of heat which required some getting used to.

After the sight seeing in the Phoenix area we did a 5 day tour featuring Prescott / Sedona, Grand Canyon, Zion National Park, Las Vegas, Hoover Dam and Lake Havasu. It was a fair way to go and we had to spend quite a lot of time in the car. But it was a nice trip with a good mix of things to do. We did some hiking, shopping and sight seeing.

Grand Canyon

At the Narrows in Zion National park

My parents at Luxor 

The Elvis fan

When we got back to Phoenix we had a rest day where we slept in and just went shopping in Scottsdale. In the evening we had a barbecue at the pool.

Tombstone down town

The last outing was a day trip down to Tombstone where we walked around the historic little down town, ate at one of the old saloons and watched the Shoot out show at OK Corral, featuring Wyatt Earp and Doc Holiday.

At Crystal Palace where we had lunch

Thanks for visiting. We had a great time!

More images from Colorado and Utah

Of course we took loads of images during our latest trip. In case you would like to see more from our latest adventures in Colorado and Utah click here.

The Narrows

The last day before heading back to Phoenix and reality again we hiked The Narrows in Zion National Park. This is a narrow canyon through which the Virgin River runs. It is so narrow that you have to hike in the river most of the time. Since this was going to be our last hiking day we did not care about getting our boots wet and the heat made it feel very tempting to hike in the cool river.

To be on the safe side we rented poles at an outdoor store that would help us keep the balance in the stream. Many hiked without but I was happy to have one so I didn't have to swim unless it was necessary. In fact we did not have to swim at all, at the deepest place the water reached up to my chest. Unfortunately this was after about 10 min so you had to get wet from the very beginning but then it was mostly knee deep.


It was a different and fun hike in the water but after a couple of hours we decided to turn back because we were getting a bit cold. Luckily at this time the sun was high enough to shine down into the canyon which helped us keep warm. I am not sure I would attempt this hike any other time of the year. In that case you have to rent a dry suite to keep warm.

Zion National Park

View over Zion National Park from Angel's Landing

As we drove into Zion National Park we realized that we were getting back to desert temperatures. It was suddenly very hot again and it was hard to sleep at night. You can't really have the engine running all night for air condition... Bryce had been warm during the day but fairly nice due to the elevation.

The heat was a factor when we chose the hikes to do here. We decided on Angel's Landing as early in the morning as possible and Lost Canyon which was a short hike in the shade most of the day. It turned out to be a good decision and we had time to get out in the afternoon and have coffee in an air conditioned café, a swim in the cold river and a beer before cooking dinner.

You have to hike this narrow ridge to reach Angel's Landing

Fun stuff!

Overnight hike in Bryce Canyon

Bryce Canyon

In Bryce Canyon we decided to do an overnight hike. We caught a lift with the tour bus to the south end of the park and hiked back to the more popular area closer to the entrance of the park. As we came to our final stop the bus driver told the other passengers, mostly overweight older americans, that he wanted to say goodbye to the two hikers and wish us a nice hike back. As we were leaving the bus the other passengers expressed their admiration and best wishes, it was obvious it is not very common to do a longer hike in this park.

At the starting point.

Before heading out you need to get a backcountry permit and reserve a spot at one of the few campgrounds along the way. We chose a camp about half ways after we added a loop of about 14 km in the south part of the park. Afterwards we realized that the loop had not been necessary to do since it was mainly in the forest without any view. It mainly just added time and effort. What we did see though were a lot of cute horned lizards, actually 19 of them. We had seen one in Arizona earlier this year and got the feeling they are rare to see but here they were everywhere.

Horned lizard

As we got our permit they also gave us a bear vault. This is a box with a lid that is bear proof in case one happened to find us and decide to try and steal our food. In the box we had to keep all food and scented items, like tooth paste. We also got very clear instructions on how and were to cook, sleep and go to the bathroom. We believe we followed the directions which should ensure that the park is kept clean and bears away from the tourists. They have had to put down two bears because they were stalking tourists looking for food. This is what happens when people leave food at campsites. Luckily we were not stalked, we only saw the foot prints of a mountain lion in the morning. We were ok with that.

Cooking dinner. Bear vault to the right.

Most of the hike was down in the valley underneath the rim which Bryce Canyon is so famous for. The very first part going down from Rainbow Point and the very last part coming up to Bryce Point were the nicest ones. On the way the trail went up and down a number of hills which turned out to be quite strenuous. The hike was in total about 50 km so we did about 25 km per day which is probably about what I can take with a heavy backpack and elevation change. We made it though and looked forward to shorter day hikes for the rest of the holiday.

Coming down from Rainbow point

Needles - an unexpected adventure

After some breakfast in our favourite café in Moab we drove south towards Needles. The Needles is a part of Canyonlands National Park and since we already had a backcountry permit for this park we thought we should drive in and have a look.

This is what we did NOT read before driving happily along and now we also understand why the park rangers wished us good luck...


So, we did not know that we were about to drive one of the hardest trail in the state although it was written on our map, on the flyer we got at the ranger station and on the big board as you start the drive. We simply did not read it... Maybe sometimes it is good not to know everything.

We just wanted to drive in, hike a bit and camp somewhere in the park and then leave the next morning. It turned out being quite a drive with one of us most of the time in front of the car spotting the best way to go. We knew that the car was capable of a lot but we did not really want to try it out because we did not want to break it. Now we know more.



We made it through without any damages to the car, but next time we will probably hike into the area and leave the poor car safe on the paved parking lot. Once we reached our camp we went for a hike and it was all worth it because this is what we saw.





The fact that the hike was longer than we expected (our mistake again), that we had to hike the last hour or so in the dark (luckily we were clever enough to bring head lamps), that we lost the trail for a short while and were hungry and tired is something we don't really remember anymore. Somehow it is almost always worth it.

White Rim Road - Utah

Almost ten years ago I stood at Grand View overlook in Canyonlands National Park, looking down over Colorado River as it meanders through the canyons. Halfways down I saw a trail following the white rim and I thought that some day I want to drive that road. A few days ago we drove down the Shafer Trail that took us to White Rim Road and exactly where I wanted to go.

The Shafer Trail is a steep trail with a series of switchbacks that takes you down to the white rim level. The trail then takes you along the rim in a very desolate area. There are a few camps along the trail but the number of visitors are limited and it is a quite long and bumpy ride so very few day trippers go that far. We spent two nights on the trail and saw very few people, only as we were entering the area and leaving again. Unfortunately the end part of the trail was blocked due to heavy rain so we could not drive the entire loop but had to go back the same way we came in.

The cool thing about the White Rim Road is the fact that it is isolated and you feel like you are the only people in this moon like landscape. At one spot you can look up to the Island in the Sky and see the tourists at the look out point looking down at you. Otherwise there is no sign of civilization at all. Luckily we brought some extra gas because we would not have made it back on only one tank of gas. And of course the beers we brought were also important. What else is there to do in the afternoon when you have reached your camp and it is still almost 40 degrees... :-)

Green River at sunset from our second camp site.

The white rim is white sand stone that runs along the canyon. At some spots you can walk out on the rocks and look down towards the river.

After two and a half days of driving mostly 20 mph due to road conditions it was nice to get out on the paved road again. It is fun to drive on this kind of trails but it is usually enough for a few hours. The picture shows an example of what it can look like and although it looks quite smooth it is fairly bumpy.

In this park we saw a few long horn sheep along the way. This one looks particularly cute.

Denver

We did not have a lot of expectations as we drove into Denver after almost two weeks in the mountains. At first it did not look very impressive but as we drove through the city center we were convinced. Denver actually has what we miss in Phoenix, a city center where people spend time, where there are restaurants, bars and cafe's. On a Friday night people are walking the 16th Street Mall watching other people, street performers and shop windows. We immediately liked the city and nominated it to a favourite US city. We could live here. The problem now is that we don't really want to go back to Phoenix...



Very close to the center we found this little park.

Only in America...

We did it!

Ten 14ers and one 13er in 10 days. Out of those ten days two were resting days which means three of eight hiking days we did two peaks. Right now I feel extremely good but I don't think I could have done many more without some more rest at this point. My body wants to do something else.

The last five 14ers were Mt Harvard and Mt Columbia (one day), Mt Yale, La Plata and Mt Elbert. Mt Elbert is the highest of the 14ers and the highest peak in Colorado and the Rocky Mountains. It was ironically the easiest one and had the biggest crowd on top. There were hikers on all peaks we visited but usually 5-10 others while on Mt Elbert there were probably about 20 and we met many still on their way up as we hiked down.

At Mt Harvard early in the morning we saw two mountains goats. This one was a bit scruffy looking but very cute.

Driving through an aspen forest to reach Mt Elbert trailhead.

We were surprised as to how few foreigners we met in the mountains. On ten peaks we only met three foreigners, two from the Czech Republic and one from Canada. All of these though live in the States at the moment as do we. I guess that we can now say that the international tourists does not make it to these wonderful areas. They are missing out on something! Apparently the tourists go to Rocky Mountain National Park and Mt Evans where you can drive all the way to the top of the mountain. It seems a lot of people from the cities in Colorado do weekend trips up to the mountains to go hiking, biking, rafting and 4 wheel driving. There was a very impressive traffic jam coming back to Denver on Sunday afternoon as we were leaving to go to Utah. Luckily we were going in the right direction.

Leaving the mountains for other adventures.