Wednesday, March 7, 2012

Travel magazines

Every time I travel I buy travel magazines. Often I fall for the glossy ones with luxurious spa resorts on the front page. It looks so wonderful I can not help but buying one or two and dream away for a little while. But because they only write about resorts where it would cost a small fortune to spend only a weekend I end up rather depressed instead of anxious to go on my next holiday. Every time. I know that the length of my holidays does not go together with these hotels and when I think about it normally not what I like to do on my holidays either.



Recently, during a long lay over at LAX, it was time for a new purchase. This time I think I found something better. A not so glossy front page with a rick shaw bike driver from Cuba caught my eye. This magazine, Afar, focused more on activities like surfing and rock climbing rather than spa and picture perfect beach resorts. I felt much better. All of a sudden I had an urge to find that little island in the Caribbean that was so hard to get to or go climbing in Cuba. It was refreshing that they focused more on what to do and experience than where to sleep, shop or drink exclusive drinks. These things usually fall into place anyway once you know where you want to go and what to do. I am more looking for inspiration and not a list of hotels and shops when I read about travel and this suited me just perfectly.

Thursday, March 1, 2012

The vision that became reality

This winter the Phoenix Art Museum has an exhibition about Frank Lloyd Wright, the well known architect who lived and worked partly in Phoenix. He was active in the beginning of the century and made some very famous buildings and homes, the most famous probably Falling Water and the Guggenheim Museum in New York.

The most fascinating thing about this exhibition was that I understood more about Phoenix and where the inspiration for the city structure had come from. A lot of Frank Lloyd Wright's work has an art deco style which I am very fond of. It is somehow both old and futuristic. I can not help thinking about Fritz Lang's Metropolis when I see art deco architecture. But the interesting thing I learned at this exhibition was that Lloyd Wright also created a plan for the perfect city, Broadacre City. It was the beginning of the century, cars were not very common but there was a dream of wealth and technically advanced future. Naturally his plan evolved around cars and the idea that everyone should have an acre of land. To make this work the city became very spread out and in order to get around quickly a network of roads were a central part of the planning. Looking at his sketches makes you realize that this is exactly what Phoenix looks like today. This futuristic city that has become reality is as functional and lifeless as the drawings show.

East Phoenix Metro Area from Superstition Ridge

The thought of giving everyone a fair piece of property close to everything they need is of course very nice. But therefore it also lacks the atmosphere that so many other cities do have and make them worth visiting. There is no city center where people spontaneously meet and where you can go shopping, catch a movie, a theater, visit markets, have coffee or dinner with friends and stroll around and do some people watching, all in the same place. Honestly, I have a very hard time to say why anyone should visit Phoenix as a tourist. It is a comfortable city to live in but does not offer a lot to the visitor. Unless the city structure itself makes you want to come and see it with your own eyes. The thing many people visit Phoenix for is the weather, to play golf or other sports when it is too cold in other places. Many baseball teams for example has their spring training in Phoenix which attracts a lot of tourists. Fair enough, the winters here are very comfortable and also my favorite thing about Phoenix.

Coming from a place where public transport is the best way of getting around and having a car is actually more of a hassle than useful, it is difficult to get used to Phoenix. People who grew up here seem to love it though. Many would just get nervous in a city where I feel very comfortable. I guess this is a good thing though, everyone is not the same and there is a place for everybody. 

Phoenix downtown escape


A couple of months ago now we decided to give Phoenix Downtown another chance and treat ourselves to a stay at a nice hotel. I could already see it in front of me; after strolling around town we would come back to the hotel in the afternoon with tired feet and legs. The champagne would be already chilled and Andy would run a hot bath were we would enjoy the bubbles. I spent some time looking for a hotel and finally chose the Westin on Van Buren and 1st Street. 

View from the Westin pool area.

The location was perfect since it is just a couple of blocks from our favourite restaurant, Sens. It is a quite small Japanese tapas style restaurant and definately worth a visit. The reason I picked the Westin was that they have a small suite with a bathroom in the corner of the building with floor to ceiling windows where you can look out over the city while having a bath. The fact that they had a bar where we felt just at home was a bonus. It was quite empty but still boosted some interesting people watching.

Just what I needed. :-)

Downtown Phoenix is really not too bad except for the fact that there are no people there. To be a multi million city it feels deserted. If you look closely there are some nice cafés, bars and restaurants but the atmosphere is missing. Sadly.

Nice café behind the Phoenix Art Museum. But where are the guests?

But we did have a good time and got what we expected.